I know, I know. It's such a cliché. But seriously, on a cool, damp evening, is there anything that seems to have as much healing power as a steaming bowl of soup?

Now that the seasons have changed -- and we've had over a foot of snow here in the Rockies- -- aromatic vegetables, broth and other soup basics are frequently on my shopping list; just knowing there's a well-stocked pantry gives me a sense of well-being. (Argh! Another soup cliché!)

But comfort is a good thing, as is having a battery of recipes on hand that can serve double duty. Replete with seasonal produce and the flavors of the Northwest, the recipe below does just that: It's an ideal first course or an easy supper served with a salad, crusty bread and wedges of ripe blue or goat cheese.

Oh, and of course, there must be wine. Try a dry, fruit-forward Pinot Gris with enough body and acidity to stand up to the slightly smoky, full-flavored soup. Suggestion: the 2005 VX Pinot Gris from Oregon's Willamette Farms.

Ahh, but it's chilly outside and red wine might seem more appropriate, yes? But the Pinot Gris works. It's a combination I had recently while traveling with Zephyr Adventures, a tour operator known for its active vacation packages.

The Zephyr folks make sure its participants have access to plenty of heart-thumping activities; they also make sure those calories are replenished -- deliciously. An example? Lunch at the VX Vineyards tasting room.

After two rainy hours of canoeing down the Willamette River, Sacagawea, Lewis, Clark and myself were pleasantly tired, happy, hungry, and thrilled to strip off our soaked river shoes and sit down to a hearty feast.

To begin? Butternut Squash Soup and (many) glasses of chilled 2005 VX Pinot Gris. The combination of hot and cold was at once bracing and soothing. This particular wine -- dry and medium-bodied with hints of citrus and stone fruits on the palate -- was a delicious match, indeed. Try it as a first course for Thanksgiving, or to kick off any harvest meal.

Willamette Farms' wines are available by mail, or you can sip them on site: the tasting room is open Saturdays April through December, plus holiday weekends, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. In fine weather, it's an ideal location for a picnic overlooking the river.

To contact the winery or plan a wine adventure vacation:

VX Vineyard
Willamette Farms
503-538-9895
8000 NE Parrish Road
Newberg, Oregon 97132
www.vxvineyard.com

Zephyr Adventures 1-888-758-8687
www.ZephyrAdventures.com

The Recipe

BUTTERNUT SQUASH BISQUE WITH BACON AND HAZELNUTS

Inspired by Hazelnuts & More by Lucy Gerspacher.
Makes about 6 cups; serves 6 to 8

1 medium butternut squash (about 3 pounds)
Water, as needed
¼ pound (about 6 slices) bacon
½ cup finely chopped onion (1 small yellow onion)
1 cup finely chopped celery (about 3 stalks)
1 cup peeled and diced Yukon gold potatoes or red potatoes (about ½ pound)
2 Fuji or Granny Smith apples, peeled, seeded and chopped (about 2 cups)
1 quart (4 cups) chicken broth
¼ cup Pinot Gris or other dry white wine
1 cup hazelnuts
½ cup heavy cream (optional)
1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Pinch ground white pepper
Pinch ground red pepper (cayenne)
Celery leaves, to garnish, optional

• Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Cut squash in half lengthwise, discard seeds, and place cut-side down in a baking dish. Add enough water to measure ½-inch up the side of the dish. Cook 45 to 60 minutes or until soft. Remove from the oven, cool to room temperature. Keep the oven on for toasting the hazelnuts.
• Cook the bacon in a large soup pot until crisp. Drain on paper towels and set aside.
• Discard all but 2 tablespoons of the bacon drippings. Add onion to the pot and cook, stirring frequently, over medium heat 3 to 5 minutes or until soft but not brown. Add celery, potato and apple and cook, stirring frequently, 3 to 5 minutes longer, or until softened.
• Remove the cooked squash from the peel and place in a bowl. Discard peel. Mash squash lightly, then measure 2 cups of the squash and add it to the pot. (Save any remaining squash to add to stews, chili, or serve as a side dish.) Add chicken broth and Pinot Gris to the pot, cover and simmer for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.
• Meanwhile, spread the hazelnuts in one layer in a shallow baking pan and roast in the hot oven for 10 to 18 minutes or until light golden. Pour the nuts onto the center of a kitchen towel. Pull the towel over the nuts and let stand at room temperature for about 10 minutes to loosen the skins. Rub the nuts with the towel to release the skins. Discard skins; chop nuts coarsely and set aside.
• Working in batches, puree the soup mixture in a food processor until smooth, about 30 seconds per batch. When all the soup has been pureed, add it back to the pot. Add the cream, salt, black pepper, white pepper, red pepper and heat until mixture comes to a simmer. Taste, and adjust seasonings.
• Ladle into bowls and top with crumbled bacon, hazelnuts and garnish with celery leaves. Serve immediately.

Visit Sarah Belk King on the web at SBKproductions.com.